Namibian Research Trip - Part 2
This is the second part of my trip report on Namibia:
Huab Lodge, edge of Damaraland
We really liked Huab Lodge (as do all our clients). There is something special about it – the spectacular setting; Jan’s relaxed expert guiding; the magical possibility of seeing desert elephant as well as zebra, kudu, gemsbok and the delightful hot springs. I can easily see why people would want to spend 3 nights or more there if they needed to relax.
The rooms at Huab are comfortable and well-equipped. Two double beds with overhead fan, fresh cold water, tea/coffee, electricity and a good bathroom with double vanity and large shower. There’s a large deck looking over the valley. The main lodge is large and relaxed in feel, open on all sides.
Jan takes you on an afternoon game drive which is extremely scenic, up and down hillsides and through dry river beds. En route you learn about the flora, the birds and the wildlife. The game is all free-roaming which means that you never know what you might see – gemsbok, kudu, mountain zebra and, of course, even desert elephant. The element of uncertainty is part of the charm but Jan’s unhurried and calm exposition about life on the reserve is always enjoyable. In the morning you enjoy an early morning walk from 6am to 7.45am and then there is the option of another drive after breakfast. Dinner was a wonderful experience. Jan welcomes everyone and introduces the complimentary wines. The food was good and again the emphasis was on relaxation and interesting conversation around the table.
Finally I should say something about the hot springs which were a personal favourite! A short walk from the pool deck brings you to the hot spring stone pool which is set under a thatched canopy with a couple of sun loungers and chairs, a hammock and a cold pool next to it for cooling off. It’s wonderful in winter of course either during the day or after the game drive when you’ll be looking at the stars.
Huab Lodge is highly recommended for ALL Damaraland itineraries for a minimum of two nights, preferably three.
Rustig Toko, southern edge of western Etosha
Ideally you would stay here if you wish to take a full day to visit the nomadic Himba people or even an escorted tour to Epupa Falls (three day trip). It is a good quality German-style guest farm. There’s an attractive pool deck with shade and loungers.
We visited the Himba people which was very worthwhile. I had feared that it would be touristy but it was not. You are shown a little bit about how they make their ochre which they rub onto their bodies, you learn about their nomadic farming lifestyle and how they prepare their food. The chief was a very pleasant man who seemed keen to chat and told us quite a bit about his life. All in all an interesting experience especially in the next couple of years before it inevitably becomes too commercialised.
Kavita Lion Lodge, southern edge of western Etosha
Kavita Lion Lodge lies in the same area slightly further north of Toko. Tammy is an English/Afrikaans-speaking Namibian and very warm and friendly. There are three styles of rooms: two slightly cheaper family cottages which are plain and old-fashioned. One has three bedrooms and the other has two bedrooms and I didn’t like either of them. But there are also 8 chalets, 5 in one style and 3 in another. Five chalets have an upstairs sitting area and are rather cute but the stairway makes them seem smaller than the other 3 chalets which are on one level and seem more spacious.
The main focus of activities at Kavita Lion Lodge is the Kavita Lion Conservation project which is introduced in a 3 hour activity usually on the first evening of arrival; and secondly various one or multi-day tours from Kavita up into the Kaokaland to visit the Himba people, see Epupa Falls etc. A typical two night stay would be afternoon visit to the Afri-Lion project. The following morning you can take an informative guided Ethno-botanical walk for approx 2 hours with a local Herero guide, or you can also do a couple of self-guided trails. The following evening you can take a game drive in their reserve (plains species only). If you wanted to visit the Himba people, this is a full day tour and could be done on a 2 or 3 night stay.Palmwag Lodge, Damaraland We liked Palmwag Lodge as well! It is a relaxed camp with a range of accommodation on offer from camping through to luxury tents. Its big pluse points are:
1) Stunning setting – oasis in the desert – with swaying palm trees and a little bit of green lawn to break up the beautiful but extremely arid Damaraland.
2) Great flexibility with various half day and full day tours which are optional extras allowing you to choose what suits you: full morning game drives in the concession, afternoon game drives (leaving at 3.30pm), full day visit to the Himba people (which also yields some game-viewing en route even desert elephant, exploration of the Hoanib valley in search of elusive elephant, Save the Rhino patrol tracking (combination of rhino tracking on foot and general game drive.
3) Palmwag Lodge is more affordable than Damaraland Mountain Camp or Rhino Camp especially in high season.
4) Possibility of seeing desert elephant close to camp as there are 3 elephant who have made Palmwag Lodge their base and come and go throughout the year.
There are two types of accommodation – standard chalets and luxury tents. The tents are more expensive and definitely recommended as they have more of a bush feel. The guiding was good. The food is OK, probably the plainest on our trip, but good quality. They are about to embark on some further upgrades – a new restaurant (double-decker with a sundowner bar on the top deck) and a new pool.
Mountain Mowani Camp, Twyffelfontein, Damaraland
Another stunning lodge – counts alongside Little Ongava as one of the most attractive and relaxing lodges on our trip. It is a beautifully designed lodge in a magnificent setting, nestled into granite boulders and they have really made the most of this with the rock swimming pool tucked into boulders (giving it some natural shade in summer). There are 12 tents which are well decorated with teak furniture and interesting use of African fabrics to liven up the décor. The deck looks out onto a awe-inspiring view which really elevates the whole experience. Tent No 5 (honeymoon tent) is particularly special – the tent is the same except with a double bed rather than two twins pushed together. It has an open air rock bathroom with a bath and shower built into the rocks. Finally they have the Private Suite which is stunning but highly priced. It is set away from the rest of the camp.
Definitely stay here even if its just for one night. Two nights would give you time to relax and enjoy the lodge, or take a tour to Twyffelfontein rock engravings or a scenic flight.
Sam’s Giardino, Swakopmund (overnight stay)
At first we weren’t sure about this as it is owned by a slightly eccentric Swiss gentleman and is also a little bit out of the centre of town. The rooms are nothing special but well equipped with hair-dryers and magazines. However what I particularly liked is that Sam gives you lots of advice as to what to do in Swakopmund and has taken many of the tours himself so that you can trust his opinion. This personal, but not intrusive attention, became increasingly evident. The sitting room is filled with interesting books on Namibia; Sam shows a wildlife video in the sitting room at 6.30pm every evening. Wine-tasting is offered every evening and is highly recommended. Sam is very knowledgeable about his wines both from France and from the New World and particularly South Africa. The meal was simple but good and the menu changes daily.
Swakopmund is a lovely town and definitely worth a 3 night stay with many activities on offer such as quad biking, sand boarding, paragliding, etc. Day excursions from Swakopmund are also offered - visiting the Cape Cross Seal Colony and the highly recommended Living Desert Tour.
Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp, near Sossusvlei, Namib Desert
It felt as if we would never reach the turn off to Kulala, but finally the signboard appeared. We had a refreshing welcome with some ice-cold cloths and welcome drinks. We joined the rest of the guests on the afternoon walk. Later we all enjoyed sundowners on the deck and a communal table was set for dinner. The staff sang folk songs during dessert that we all enjoyed. There was a fantastic atmosphere at the dinner table. We had our wake up call at 0430 for the morning drive to Sossusvlei. We saw the most beautiful sunrise just before we entered the Sossusvlei. Wilderness Safaris is the ONLY property to have PRIVATE access to Sossusvlei (i.e. not entering at the National Park gate at Sesriem). Our guide was brilliant and had excellent knowledge of all aspects of the desert as well as fantastic driving skills. On arrival at Sossusvlei we took off our shoes and went for the 1 km walk to the Dead Vlei. The lodge is attractive and ecologically friendly, run on solar power so therefore there are only ceiling fans in all the rooms (no air-conditioning). The bathrooms are built from stone available on the reserve. The rooms are canvas with double doors overlooking the valley panorama. Recommended.
For more Information & Travel ideas visit our main website at http://cedarberg-travel.com/