I recently had the good fortune to spend a weekend at the Royal Malewane Lodge in the private Thornybush game reserve adjacent to the Kruger National Park. Royal Malewane Lodge is one of the most luxurious game lodges in the greater Kruger Park area and yet, as the weekend went on, I found that it wasn’t just the elegance of the lodge which was the drawcard. Rather it was the seamless mix of understated luxury, expert guiding, delicious cuisine, state of the art spa facilities and the friendly, personal service of the staff which makes Royal Malewane such a success.

Royal Malewane is clearly aimed at the discerning and well-travelled clientele. However what I particularly liked was that the service was delivered in a friendly and unassuming way so that everyone felt at home here very quickly. Our ranger was Juan Pinto, a level 3 SKS guide, with his tracker, Wilson who has attained the Master Tracker status. They made an excellent team: Juan was a fount of information and imparted this knowledge with quiet calm assurance coupled with a nice line in dry humour. As you’ll read later, our game-viewing experience at Royal Malewane (over four morning and afternoon game drives) was excellent, despite the slightly inhospitable weather.

Something I also really appreciated was Juan’s assistance with photography whilst on our drive. So many people have cameras which they really don’t know how to get the most out of, myself included, and Juan helpfully gave us a few tips on taking backlit shots of animals, how to deal with fading light conditions and sunset shots to name but a few examples.

Royal Malewane is exquisitely decorated, and unlike some recent game lodges, has not gone the ‘Manhattan meets the Bush’ route. This game lodge looks like a game lodge should look with a serene outlook and lots of quiet places to relax and read during the day. The suites offer unashamed luxury with four poster beds, (and a stool to climb into them), fireplaces, decadent bathrooms and wooden decks with a private sala. I can honestly say that I couldn’t think of anything more I would have wanted in my suite. Unique amongst the top lodges in South Africa, the Royal Malewane has two ultra-luxurious suites, the Royal and the Malewane Suites each with two en suite bedrooms and a large private sitting room and dining area. These suites have private entrance so that guests craving complete privacy can come and go as they please. If you take one of these suites, you have your own private chef, butler and ranger so you can really choose your own safari rhythm to suit you.

The food was delicious at Royal Malewane with lots of delicate flavours with options to eat before you left for your morning drive, a full breakfast on your return, lunch (if you could manage it), a plentiful afternoon tea and dinner. One particular feature of the lodge is that dinner is offered in a number of venues. For example, a romantic Bedouin dinner in the bush, with a selection of Cape Malay dishes, or a crystal dinner on the top deck. The Royal Malewane has recently won the Bush Banquet award for their alfresco culinary skills.

Of course I couldn’t resist trying out the Spa at Royal Malewane. This Spa is quite a unique selling point for Royal Malewane, with an extra length pool for swimming off the delicious food, several treatment rooms, an alfresco Jacuzzi as well as double Turkish baths for an indulgent coupley experience. What I also loved were the shaded ‘casetas’ where you can lounge on beds overlooking the pool, either before or after a treatment. I opted for a facial – one and a half hours of sheer bliss.

I was so relaxed afterwards that I half thought I might gently nod off on the game drive. However there was no danger of that as we embarked on one of the most interesting game drives that I’ve experienced. We headed to the far north of the reserve in search of cheetah which had been spotted in that vicinity. En route we came across three white rhino, including one baby, quietly grazing. After some adept tracking by Wilson and Juan, working in tandem with another Royal Malewane game vehicle, the three cheetah were located - camouflaged and resting after a hectic day of seeing off a rival cheetah which had strayed into their territory. We returned south, already feeling satisfied with our drive and stopped for sundowner drinks. I always enjoy learning about the constellations which are usually easily seen in the African sky but Juan went further. Producing a powerful telescope, he proceeded to show us Saturn, Venus, Mercury and various constellations such as Scorpio. Juan was adept at simplifying his extensive knowledge of the planets into easily digestible morsels, which was much appreciated by this novice star-gazer, and such was the interest generated that I’ve vowed to read up on it.

On continuing our drive, we happened on a large termite mound which was being used by hyenas as their hide. After watching the curious hyena youngsters practically sniffing the vehicle, we were continuing towards the lodge when we learnt that a pride of lions (that we’d seen earlier in the morning) had killed a young leopard cub. A female leopard had been escorting her two cubs when the lions had attacked, seeing the leopard as competition for scarce resources. By the time we got to the area, the mother leopard was very very wary. She had escaped from the lions but was guarding her dead cub from the hyenas who were also threatening her. It was a truly pitiful sight to see the tiny lifeless cub. However there was also no sign of the other cub. Had the lions taken him as well?

We would not know until the morning when on our final morning drive, we spotted the mother again and saw the other cub, alive and well, stashed high in a tree by his protective mother whilst she lay mourning her other cub. It provided a ray of hope after the sadness of the previous evening and made for the perfect end to a sublime weekend.

I never knew that the northern part of the Kruger National Park would be so beautiful and diverse. Truly remote, the pristine wilderness area of Makuleke lies between the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers. The area is rich in history; filled with folklore of the early explorers and ancient civilisations. Here, Pafuri Game Lodge acts as a successful model for community conservation. Approximately 8% of the profits go straight back into the local community.

The region is also incredibly rich in biodiversity with more than 75% of the Kruger National Park’s bird, mammal, fish, amphibian, reptile and tree species being found in an area no more than 1% of the total expanse.

We arrived in the early evening and were met by the friendly Pafuri staff. The camp lies on the northern bank of the Luvuvhu River and has 26 tents, six of which are family tents sleeping up to 4 people (or even 5 if pre-arranged). Pafuri is also accessible by air with an airstrip only 10km away or you can fly from Phalaborwa Airport with a private charter.

The tents are accessed by elevated walkways and are spread out on either side of the main lodge along the river bank. The decor is modern and colourful with an understated luxury.

On our first morning game drive, just as the sun starts to rise, we drove into a magical fever tree forest. The fever tree is an attractive, semi-deciduous tree. The characteristic, almost luminous, lime green to greenish-yellow bark is smooth, slightly flaking, and coated in a yellow powdery substance described by some as sulphurous.

We had our morning cup of tea at Crook’s Corner, where the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and three countries, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique, meet. (Here Cecil Barnard hid on an island in the middle of the Limpopo in the ’20s to avoid being tracked down by pursuing rangers and police.) The ancient Limpopo River is now completely dry because of over-cultivation but we could just imagine the strength and might that the great Limpopo River once had…

That afternoon we passed enormous ancient Baobab trees and had our sundowner drinks with the spectacular views over Lanner’s Gorge. On our way back to the camp we were met by a full grown male leopard that seemed surprisingly unaffected by our presence. This is great news for an area that was not long ago affected by heavy poaching and I am sure that the predator numbers will grow to its former glory due to the huge success of the anti-poaching team.

After our final morning drive we left for Mashatu Camp and were sad to say goodbye to this jewel in the African bush.

We drove 3 hours to Pont Drift on the Botswana border where we were met by a Mashatu representative and transferred (35 mins) to Mashatu Main Camp for our 2 nights stay. Known as the ‘Land of the Giants’ the vast dry landscape of the Tuli region was in great contrast with Pafuri.

Mashatu Game Reserve in is a diverse wilderness of savannah, riverine forests, marshland, open plains and sandstone outcrops. The largest private reserve in Southern Africa, with the largest elephant population (almost 900) on private land in the world, Mashatu encompasses 65,000 acres along the western bank of the Limpopo River.

As we were having tea prior to our afternoon drive, elephants in their abundance met at the waterhole at Mashatu Main camp. However plenty of elephants are not all you’ll see on the game drives. A ranger and tracker in open four-wheel-drive Land Cruisers, will follow the spoor of any predator that they can find. I was highly impressed with the quantity and quality of the game viewing and our ranger was eager to please and had to rush from lion to leopard to cheetah within a short time on the drive.

Mashatu Main Camp has a large pool and the suites are luxurious and spacious with a double bed, single bed and a day bed, making it ideal for families or anybody that prefer the luxury of air-conditioning and all the other modern amenities one might need in the bush.

The next morning some of us went on a mountain biking excursion within the reserve which has become a popular adventure sport combining game viewing with the excitement of approaching wild animals in their natural habitat. Mashatu has many other additional activities on offer. Mashatu Walking Safaris with Paul Grobler lets you join in a morning or afternoon walk from the camp enjoying a delightful breakfast in the bush. A full day walking safari is also available for those who are interested. The Ivory Experience is lead by an elephant specialist, researching the ecology of the elephant population in Tuli. The Mmamakwa Trips are for those who are interested in the history of the area and learning more about the history of the area from the early Iron Age culture up to the more recent Boer war. The Limpopo Valley Horse safaris let you join on a morning or afternoon ride from the Fort Jameson’s on the Limpopo River (experienced riders only). The Predator Research Drive takes you on a research orientated drive giving a fascinating insight into the life of a leopard researcher.

In the morning, on our way back to the camp, lionesses and their cubs had just caught a blue wildebeest and as we approached a large herd or elephants saw the dead wildebeest and chased the lions away. The lions did return at a later stage and the cubs seemed so small and thin that I was glad that they had something to eat in the dry landscape that surrounded us!

Later in the afternoon we went to visit Mashatu Tented Camp. It is important to note that this tented camp is very rustic in style and amenities and cannot be compared with the luxury that you will find at either Mashatu Main Camp or Pafuri Wilderness Camp. However the feeling of being in the bush in an old style tented camp is a wonderful authentic experience.

These two wonderful camps, Mashatu and Pafuri are a unique combination and can be combined with a 2 night stay in the Sabi Sands area to make up a perfect safari for Southern Africa. You also may like to have a night or two at The Coach House Hotel and Spa en route from Mashatu to Pafuri. Contact mari@cedarberg.co.za for prices on these suggested combinations or any ideas to include these special places into your tailor-made itinerary.

I recently visited Namibia with my husband and my two boys, 10 and 12 years old on a two week trip. We fell in love with the rugged beauty of the Namibian landscape and I want to share my experience and views with you in a few different blog entries.

To get a better sense of the different choices for stays in the Sossusvlei area I want to summarize my overall view of the properties in that area.

In general I would say if you are looking for over the top luxury I would go for the villas at Little Kulala with their new style in modern interior. The most family friendly camp would be Kulala Wilderness Camp with the two separate inter-leading rooms that form the family unit and they do take children of all ages. But taking in consideration location and quality for money my favourite overall would be Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp.

We left Luderitz at 09:00 the following morning and drove the D707 to KULALA WILDERNESS CAMP.  This route is more scenic than the C13 via Helmeringhausen and the road was in good condition.  We easily found the turnoff to Kulala Wilderness Camp (old Kulala Tented Camp).  This camp is ideal for the more adventurous, small groups and families and has 9 safari tents on elevated wooden decks with stone en-suite bathrooms and panoramic view on the plains.  The main area is elevated on a wooden deck and there is a plunge pool and bar area where we saw a magnificent sunset.  We stayed in their family unit that was very comfortable and each unit has a staircase that leads up to the flat rooftop where you can do stargazing or sleep under the stars on a provided bedroll. This camp will be ideal for the more adventurous and self-drive guest. 

We were looking forward to our trip the next morning to Sossusvlei National Park!  We left at 05:30 to drive through the reserve to the private entrance into the Namib Naukluft Park and onto Sossusvlei.  We drove past the hot air ballooning-launching site on their property.  (We should recommend that our clients stay at either Kulala Desert Lodge or Little Kulala if they are keen to do the ballooning in order to avoid a long early morning drive to get to the launch site).

We saw the sun rise over the dunes and the hot air balloons drifting away in the distance and this were just the start of the day trip to Sossusvlei.  We drove past the most impressive dunes and I could not get enough of the beauty and diversity of every single dune.  The guide asked if we would like to climb a dune and the children and the rest of the party were all for it.  We climbed ‘Dune 45’ and the children climbed all the way to the top, but…. I am afraid… I gave it my all, but decided I will rather take pictures of them going to the top than attempting it myself.  But… it definitely was an experience that we, as a family, will never forget.

The dunes at Sossusvlei are amongst the highest in the world and unbelievable!!
It was already hot when we started our walk to the vlei, but it was worth it.  We had a packed lunch when we returned from Sossusvlei and we were all exhausted from the trip.  The children could not keep their eyes open on the drive back to the lodge.

We arrived at LITTLE KULALA after doing the Sossusvlei excursion and could not believe the luxury that awaited us. They have 11 stylish thatched villas including one family unit where we stayed.  Each has its own private plunge pool and needless to say…. we thought we were in heaven!!  There is aircon in all the rooms, rooftop ‘sky bed’ for stargazing with both indoor and outdoor showers.  The main area is very striking as the floors are all painted white against brown and this is apparently to resemble Sossusvlei.  There is also a waterhole and at   the pool there is a mini dune that is starting to develop – unbelievable!  We also did a sundowner cruise to the Sesriem Canyon in the late afternoon. I have to say that this is by far the smartest property I have stayed at in Namibia and is rivalled only by Little Ongava. If clients can afford it, they just have to spend at least 2 nights at Little Kulala.  Apart from Kulala Desert Lodge it is the nearest lodge to the dunes and to Sossusvlei.

I had a site inspection of SOSSUSVLEI WILDERNESS CAMP that is together with Kulala Wilderness Camp the furthest situated from the dunes and Sossusvlei.  However, I really liked Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp as it is built near the top of a mountain, with fantastic views of the plains below and the dunes can also be seen in the distance.  The camp has nine chalets build from rock and thatch roofs, each with its own private plunge pool.  This is the only lodge that has a telescope for stargazing in the evenings. This lodge will be ideal for groups as well as FITs.

Before we headed to Swakopmund I had a site inspection of KULALA DESERT LODGE that is situated the nearest to the Dunes and to the private entrance to the Namib Naukluft Park/Sossusvlei.   The rooms are not very big and the living / dining area was smaller than the other lodges.  Although it is situated nearest to the Dunes, I would prefer Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp (or Little Kulala if budget allows) to Kulala Desert Lodge. 

THE DESERT HOMESTEAD & HORSETRAILS were our next stop. It has been newly rebuilt and is only 31 km from Sesriem and the entrance to the Namib Naukluft Park.  They have 20 thatched chalets and extra beds can also be added to the chalets for children.  The main indoor dining area is very spacious and the veranda next to the pool offers awesome views of the surrounding landscape.  They also offer sundowner drives, guided walks, Sossusvlei and Naukluft excursions, ballooning, scenic flights and quad biking can all be arranged.  They have become a popular destination for keen horse riders as they have horses for experienced riders and for beginners.  This is the ideal property to stay at if you cannot afford the Wilderness Safaris properties but still want to experience all that the region has to offer.  It is ideal for clients who wants to self-drive to the Naukluft Park or to Sossusvlei.

SOSSUSVLEI LODGE was our next stop and is situated right at the entrance gate to Sesriem Canyon and to Sossusvlei.  The lodge has 45 en-suite rooms and 3 inter-leading family units sleeping four, each with its own private patio. Facilities include a terrace overlooking a floodlit waterhole, swimming pool, curio shop and bar. A variety of adventures can be planned from the lodge including 4×4 excursions to the dunes and hot air ballooning.  It is next to Sesriem camping and I can assume can get a bit crowded during peak season. I would recommend this lodge for families or the more adventurous traveller who is not expecting luxury. Not one of my favourites!

LE MIRAGE DESERT LODGE & SPA is situated right next to the main road  (21 km from Sesriem) and not in the middle of the desert like their brochure would suggest. It has 26 luxury rooms, air conditioning, minibar and private balconies which offers amazing views on the open plains below as it is a double storey building. An open courtyard with swimming pool and green lawns and plants did make it look very inviting.  Here you can take a nature drives with quad bikes, which I think young and old will enjoy.  What makes them different is the Spa with 7 treatment rooms, 2 aroma baths and Jacuzzi and apparently it is open for anyone to visit.  I think clients staying at nearby lodges might like to make use of the Spa, but I would not really recommend it to our clients as it is a castle which looks very incongruous in the middle of the desert (Kate: Beau Geste gone wrong?).  Trips to Sossusvlei can also be arranged.

For more information visit http://www.cedarbergtravel.com

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I’ve just spent three days in the Okavango Delta in Botswana, staying at Stanley’s Camp for two nights and at Chiefs Camp for the third night. It felt as if I had been away for a month! I experienced so many amazing and awesome moments, the most special of which was the interaction with the elephants at Stanleys Camp -  Jabu, Tembe and Morula.

After breakfast we were transferred to the trio of elephants where we met Doug Groves who, together with his wife, Sandi, has cared for these elephants since 1988. He first set down some rules before we were introduced to Jabu, a proud and handsome bull who enjoys his role as the Alpha male of the small herd. We were then invited one by one to stand with Jabu and were allowed to touch him, to feel the difference in the skin of his legs, armpits and trunk, whilst Doug was chatting to us about elephants. Standing underneath the head of an elephant while touching his trunk and leg is indeed very special. Different emotions rush through you – you’re scared and wonder how you can even dream of standing underneath such a huge animal;  yet you are also awestruck by the trust and tranquility you feel around him.  Jabu short for Jabulani, a common Zulu name, means Happiness and indeed Jabu’s zest for life is inspiring.  He is kind, playful, generous, big-hearted and dependable. Of the three elephants he is the most independent and confident. After the introduction to Jabu, we then met Tembe and Morula. The end of the tail of an elephant feels like fencing wire!  Thembi short for Thembigela, is a common Zulu name meaning Trust. Thembi is the sweetheart of the herd and the smallest in stature. Smart and very social, she loves to be the centre of attention.  Morula weaves a powerful magic of her own as in her quiet and subtle way she captures your heart with her sincere, loyal and sweet nature.

After ample time for having your photograph taken with the elephants, you then accompany the herd on their foraging trek. You are invited by Doug to walk in front of the elephants. Morula placed her trunk on my shoulder and gently steered me in the direction she wanted to go. I cannot begin to explain how small, but at the same time how special, I felt. Imagine leading a trio of elephants through the bush! All guests are given the opportunity to experience this. The walk, through the stunning scenery of the Okavango Delta with its huge trees and grass plains, lasts approximately one hour.

Lunch is then served under the shade of  huge Sausage trees with the elephants in close proximity.  You are given a final opportunity after lunch for a photo with Jabu when he stands next to you at the table. His trunk actually pushes against the table! Doug then gets Jabu and Morula to demonstrate the various sounds that they make before Morula gives each guest a goodbye kiss. You are then officially a member of the “Living with Elephants” foundation.

Doug and Sandi strive to give Jabu, Thembi and Morula a life that is as close to elephants’ natural lives as possible, yet one that is cushioned from the enormous pressures, insecurities and challenges with which wild elephants are confronted. The Groves vowed from the beginning never to compromise the quality of life and security their elephants need. They are proud that their trio live a life so near to that of wild elephants that they even share grazing grounds. Currently, Grey Matters, Doug and Sandi’s Botswana-based company, supports the elephant Trio through educational-based eco-tourism. Through Grey Matters international visitors have the opportunity, through Jabu, Thembi and Morula, to foster a kinship with the African elephant. For further information visit the website www.livingwithelephants.org.

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Seba Camp, was probably our favorite.  The camp and staff was fabulous. We simply connected well with the staff at Seba and had by far the most qualified guide there.  He was a true Bushman who showed us how to track animals to find them and he pointed out many of the smaller things which we would not have been as interested in had we already not seen the large animals elsewhere.

*** Seba Wilderness Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Akeru was truly wonderful!
The lodge has a lovely atmosphere, a friend said it sounded like rustic luxury and I think this describes it well. I expected short game drives and lots of relaxation time but this was not the case. We were up at 5am and didn’t return for breakfast until well after 9am. A walk was then arranged followed by lunch and we were back in those land rovers by 4.45/5pm returning after dark at about 7.30/8pm for dinner. Having been on safari before I now realise how I was short changed in the past. Akeru really took care to ensure that we made the most of being in the park. The service was excellent, the food terrific and the game rangers incredibly knowledgeable so this was a real highlight.

*** Akeru Safari Lodge, Timbavati Game Reseve, Mpumalanga, South Africa

I recently spent some time in Victoria Falls on the Zambian side and here’s my review of the deluxe country lodges upstream of Victoria Falls.

Why would you stay here instead of closer to the Falls?

• All of the lodges reviewed have magnificent locations on the Zambezi River a few kilometers upstream from the Victoria Falls
• Here you can enjoy the sights and sounds of Victoria Falls and the Zambezi in a peaceful and tranquil setting away from the madding crowds.
• The Zambezi National Park is just across the river, and elephants and hippo can often be seen (and heard) on the riverbank.
• By mid-Sept, the Victoria Falls are starting to look less impressive, especially from the Zambian side. By staying at one of these lodges, with their serene river settings, your focus is not only the Falls but also appreciating the majesty of the Zambezi river.

All the lodges include all meals and a number of activities in their rates. Typically these include guided tours to the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls as well as sundowner boat cruises and guided canoeing on the Zambezi, fishing trips, bird walks, village visits and visits to the town of Livingstone with its craft market. I recommend the canoeing as a relaxed afternoon activity to soak up the atmosphere of the Zambezi river. These lodges support a number of local villages and so visits to local villages and schools are also very popular with guests.

The lodges can book various other tours run by separate companies. These would be at an  additional cost. Activities such as white water rafting, helicopter flights, microlite flights are some of the activities available.

Another recommended add-on is a visit to the amazing Livingstone Island which lies right at the edge of the Falls. You can have lunch or tea on the island and dive into its rock pool just two metres from the very edge of the Falls.

River Club
The River Club is the most upmarket lodge in Victoria Falls and is highly recommended, though a little on the expensive side. Its style is completely different from Tongabezi Lodge (see below) and each lodge would suit different people.

River Club has a distinct Edwardian/colonial flavour, with many pictures of the original homestead and a soft colonial décor. Ten luxurious thatched chalets overlook the Zambezi River and have en-suite facilities including a romantic bath with a view of the river and shower. The rooms are all completely open in the front giving you the best views of the Zambezi (but concertina shutters are being added so you can close the room at night if you prefer). They have full electricity with ceiling fans to enhance the cooling river breezes. River Club has a gorgeous swimming pool overlooking the Zambezi and the homestead with its dining room, lounge and covered veranda is furnished in a relaxed colonial style.

Sindabezi Island
Sindabezi Island was a particular favourite of mine. Imagine staying on a private island in the middle of the Zambezi river accessible only by boat from its sister lodge, Tongabezi Lodge. Sindabezi was recently voted one of UK Tatler magazine’s 101 Hot Places to Stay. It’s an enchanting location – very private and tranquil with lots of birdlife, grunting hippos and elephant activity to keep you company. There’s no electricity so your open chalet is lit by hurricane lanterns at night. I loved my romantic open-fronted chalet with nothing between my bed and the river except a wooden deck. ¼br /> Sindabezi sleeps only ten people and is rustic in style with wood fires and hot bucket showers on demand (only 5 or 10 minutes wait). The chalets have large rustic four poster beds swathed in mosquito netting and each has a separate toilet and an outdoor shower. In the morning you are woken by magnificent sunrises over the flood plains of the Zambezi river.
Your stay at Sindabezi Island Camp begins with either a short boat ride (20 mins) or a guided canoe trip from Tongabezi Lodge down the Zambezi river to the island. The chances of spotting game from Sindabezi are very good as it lies just across the water from Zimbabwe’s second largest national park. Elephant and hippo are often to be seen grazing on the nearby river banks. Sindabezi’s guides use their expert knowledge on the many inclusive activities including bird watching; fishing; game viewing; canoeing; boating; island lunches and picnics as well as guided tours to Victoria Falls.
One of the great aspects of Sindabezi Island is that you can take the whole lodge for exclusive use so it’s ideal for families or a small party looking for complete privacy and is particularly good value. I would also recommend combining one of two nights at Tongabezi or River Club with one or two nights here as the experience is completely different.

Despite my enthusiasm, Sindabezi would not suite everyone. Given the open nature of the chalets, it may not suit you if you’re a little nervous or concerned about the small creatures of the African bush (bugs). As there is no electricity or swimming pool, I don’t recommend it for the summer months (no fans) though your chalet would have cooling breezes at night.

Tongabezi

Tongabezi Lodge is completely different in style from the River Club. It is wilder, less manicured and more African in feel with open expansive views of the river. You choose between one of the four ‘Houses’ or the six cottages. The romantic Houses are furnished with local materials. Dominating each house is the huge, king-size bed. As with the other lodges, each House is completely open to the front affording superb river views and sounds. I’m sure that Tongabezi has more than its fair share of honeymoon couples and your private balcony overlooking the river is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner under the stars. Honeymoon House was the first but it has now been joined by the equally romantic and unique Bird House, Tree House and somewhat unfortunately named Dog House. The bathrooms each have huge open-air sunken baths … very indulgent. If you prefer have a room which is enclosed at night, then you can opt for one of the River Cottages (less expensive). There’s a sixth Garden cottage which has a second bedroom annexe and therefore doubles as a Family suite sleeping four. There is full power in all the rooms.

The central public areas are decorated in earthy African style and include an open-air bar, sitting area and dining area. However dining is usually outside on one of the river decks. The swimming pool is landscaped into a rock face and there are two grass tennis courts and a croquet lawn. There’s also a private Tsala for massages, and honeymooners and other romantics can opt for a private candlelit dinner on a sanpan floating on the Zambezi River under the stars.

Chuma House
Chuma House was named after David Livingstone’s faithful friend and is an exclusive two bedroom villa. Guests have their own private chef to cook all meals, a butler service and a private guide, vehicle and boat for all their activities. There are two en suite bedrooms - one double room with a bath and outdoor shower and one twin room with a bath and in-door shower. The spacious lounge and dining room area,  outdoor verandah, deck area and private swimming pool all have lovely views of the Zambezi River.

Islands of Siankaba
If you don’t mind being further away from the Victoria Falls, then I would also recommend the Islands of Siankaba, a romantic forest retreat built on two pristine islands in the Zambezi River 47 km upstream from the falls and 30 km from the Chobe National Park. On the smaller island, nine luxurious en suite teak and canvas guest chalets nestle in the tree canopy, overlooking the river, and come complete with ball and claw baths. Mokoro trails, nature trails and village walks are complimentary activities, while the full gamut of options at Victoria Falls can easily be arranged.

Islands of Siankaba is well priced compared to the other lodges discussed above and if you choose to stay here, we would book a visit to the Victoria Falls with your transfer so that you see the Falls before going to your lodge. As it is further away from the Falls, this means it is closer to the Botswanan border and Chobe National Park so its well worth considering if you are heading into Botswana afterwards as your transfer times will be much shorter.

For more information visit our main website at http://www.cedarberg-travel.com

My recent blogs have been on my visit to Zambia and today I am focusing on walking safaris in the South Luangwa National Park which is one of Africa’s premier wildlife sanctuaries. The brooding Luangwa River meanders through the luxuriant valley, supporting thousands of hippo and crocodile and sustaining the park. South Luangwa has one of the greatest game concentrations in Africa. Elephant, a wide variety of antelope, buffalo, kudu, zebra, Thornycroft’s giraffe and wildebeest occur in great numbers, as well as over 400 bird species. Lion, wild dog and hyena are also common and the park is famed for its excellent leopard sightings.

Walking Safaris were pioneered in Luangwa and it is still one of the finest places for game walking in Africa. Expert guides lead you through the bush, giving you the opportunity to observe the game at close quarters and gain fascinating insights into the ways of the wild. 

Several bush camps offer walking safaris. I stayed at some in the southern part of the Park. Ideally you split your time between two or three of these camps to enjoy the different terrain and then you walk from one camp to another (with your bags being taken by vehicle so that it is waiting for you on arrival.)

I stayed at Bilimungwe Bushcamp.

Bilimungwe is an intimate little camp with just four chalets. It is very shaded (so well recommended if your safari is in September or October) as the camp lies under a magnificent Mahogany trees on the edge of a small plain. The camp has a very pleasant and unpretentious ambience – the four reed and thatch chalets are comfortable and well-appointed with two double beds and en-suite shower, toilet and double vanities. The rustic dining area and fully stocked bar are constructed on a raised deck with views of Bilimungwe’s permanent water hole which attracts abundant game. Manda, the resident guide at ‘Billies’, recently won first prize at the prestigious Safari Guide of the Year awards in London, just to give you a sense of his well-ranging knowledge. Bilimungwe offers both walking safaris and night drives by game vehicle. The waterhole also offers the possibility of bird-watching and wildlife viewing from your raised deck. Bilimungwe is one of the furthest camps from the airport so we recommend that you perhaps stay here last (as the return transfer never seems to take as long as the arrival transfer!)

I also visited Chindeni camp, which is 7km away from Bilimungwe. It has a picturesque setting on the edge of a permanent lagoon with the Nchindeni Hills as a magnificent backdrop.  Chindeni’s four en-suite luxury tents have raised decks from which you can view the resident game or simply enjoy the serenity of the lagoon.  Each tent has two queen-sized beds, shower, toilet, double vanities and polished floors. This camp has one resident guide and also focuses on walking safaris with night drives by game vehicle. The permanent lagoon also offers the possibility of bird-watching and wildlife viewing from your raised deck. Given the tented accommodation I would not recommend staying at this camp as the season progresses into October as the tents get very hot and also the lagoon in front of Chindeni shrinks in size as the dry season progresses until it dries up completely by mid October.

Next I visited Chamilandu camp which is one of the most popular camps. This is probably because of its stunning setting in one of the Luangwa Valley’s prime river locations. It’s a small camp - three treehouse chalets (2-metre high) are very open and airy. They are simply but stylishly decorated with wrought iron four poster beds with mosquito nets and open air bathrooms with shower, vanity and toilet. Each of these reed and thatch chalets has a bird’s eye view over the waters of the Luangwa River and Nchindeni Hills beyond.  A series of seven ox-box lagoons nearby yields a particularly high diversity of species and attracts abundant wildlife. As with the other bush camps there is one resident guide and the camp offers both walking safaris and night drives by game vehicle. Chamilandu is closer to the airport with a transfer time of approx 1½ to 2 hours. Given their airy nature, the treehouses could be a little cold at night during the middle of the winter (if you are someone who feels the cold) but the cooling breezes would be welcome as the temperatures rise towards late September and October.

Tips
The bush camps vary in price and one of the reasons is the number of guides. If a camp has two or more guides, then you can choose to enjoy a walking safari or a game drive. If your small bush camp has one guide only, this offers a very intimate exclusive experience but you will be expected to participate in both game walks and game drives. To put it bluntly, if everyone else in the camp has come to enjoy a walking safari, and you don’t want to walk, then this puts a strain on the safari atmosphere and the camps ability to satisfy all their client’s expectations.

If you are not sure that you want to go on a walking safari, either opt to stay at one of the central lodges, such as Nkwali, which focus more on game drives, or better still, spend a little more and stay at a bush camp which offers the choice of walks or game drives, such as Tena Tena or Nsefu. 

Consider combining a walking safari at a bushcamp with one of the central lodges. These lodges focus more on game drives and though larger, offer more creature comforts such as swimming pools. Many visitors spend a couple of nights spinning off a few rolls of film here, where animals are relaxed and used to vehicles, then head into the wilderness.

Best Time to Go
As you will have gleaned, the South Luangwa gets very hot as the dry season continues. I would say that October would be too hot for most people for a walking safari. The ideal time for walking is probably late July to mid September. In July it will be cool in the mornings but you’ll be able to walk in comfort for hours if you wish. By mid September, it will be warm as you leave the camp early and you will typically be quite hot by the time you finish your walk at 10.30 or 11am.

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