This is a subject I’ve been meaning to address for a few months, ever since my last solo research trip with all three of my kids. I got chatting with another Mother who had encountered huge pressures when trying to identify suitable places to take the family on safari when travelling without the company another adult. We’ve now done a lot of thinking about the unique needs of Single Parent Families on Safari…

Most affordable - Ker & Downey ‘Family months’ in Botswana
Veteran safari operator Ker & Downey has several camps which are ideal for families. When parents are travelling solo with kids, the most suitable is the more affordable Okuti, in the renowned Moremi Game Reserve. Here, the activities (game drives in 4×4 open sided vehicles and motorboating) are safe for children age seven and above and there are two family units, so there is a chance that there may be other families with whom to share the bush experience.

During the “family months” of March to June and November, three nights fly-in safari ex Maun costs US$4102 (£2051), based on one adult and two children age 16 years and under, sharing a triple, inclusive of meals and snacks, beverages, game drives and boating and air transfers from Maun.

Larger families, especially with over 16s or in peak season, would be better suited to the Young Explorers programme, in which each family has sole use of a private camp. From July to October the cost of three nights ex Maun is from US$1838 to $2930 (£919 to £1465) per person, adult or child, depending on the size of the party.

Money no object - Kwando Safaris
Kwando Safaris has dedicated programmes, not only for children age 8 to 12 but also a scaled down version of Ranger Training for teenagers. Each family has a dedicated specialist professional guide and exclusive use of a vehicle but the parent can enjoy some private or adult time between game activities, as staff are allocated to handle the children while in camp to allow adults to get a break from full-on parenting as well. This programme is available year around. This programme is available year around at Kwando Safaris Kwara Camp, Lagoon Camp and Lebala Camp.

In the Shoulder Season from 01 April to 31 May and 01 November to 30 Nov, three nights fly-in safari to Kwando Kwara ex Maun costs US$6990 (£3495), based on one adult and two children age 16 years and under, sharing a triple, inclusive of meals and snacks, beverages, game drives and boating, specialist family guide, private vehicle and air transfers from Maun.

Best for youngsters - CCAfrica Nxabega and Sandibe
The sister lodges Nxabega and Sandibe are both suitable for single-parent families with children as young as six years. They can offer shortened game drives, child-minders can be booked for the evenings and videos, colouring books, and games are available.

Three nights fly-in safari ex Maun, based on one adult and two children age 6 to 11 years, sharing a triple, inclusive of meals and snacks, beverages, game drives and air transfers from Maun.
From March to May and November costs US$4225 (£2212)
From June to October costs US$5895 (£2947)

The Okavango Delta, the jewel in the middle of the Kalahari Desert of    Botswana, is Africa’s largest and most beautiful oasis - an isolated, lush green paradise with some of the richest wildlife in the world. This exceedingly beautiful maze of waterways, lagoons, vast grassy plains and palm-fringed and wooded islands is home to crocodile, hippo, elephant, lion, leopard, hyena, giraffe, wild dog, rare antelope and around 400 bird species. We are often asked about the seasonal flooding of the Okavango Delta in Botswana – Why does it happen? When does it happen? Why do some lodges have water all year and others only during the flood? So I thought I’d try to address this issue in more depth…

Where does the source of the Okavango come from?
The source of the Okavango Delta lies in the extremely wet highlands of Angola to the north. From here the Cubango River flows south, through Namibia, away from the sea, gathering ever more water until it finally reaches Botswana, where the river becomes known as the Okavango. Here, the fate of the river is determined by a series of fault lines deep below the desert surface. Once the river passes over the first fault line, it splits into several channels forming a vast, fan-shaped, astonishingly luxuriant wilderness of flood plain and forest, stream and lagoon, the ideal breeding ground for an incredible diversity of wildlife. When the water meets the final two fault lines, the water is literally dammed and cannot go further. (Before the fault lines, the river flowed through the area which is now the Okavango Delta and the Makgadikgadi pans, and probably on to the Indian Ocean by flowing into the Limpopo river.)

When does it happen?
Something that often confuses people is that Botswana and the Okavango Delta has a summer rainfall and yet the flood occurs in the dry winter months. The rain falls during the summer and first seeps into the parched ground before the rivers start flowing. It takes months for the river flow to reach the Okavango Delta. (The flood travels very slowly at only a kilometre a day, partly because of the shallow gradient and because the swamp vegetation slows the water.) The flood starts coming into the northern reaches of the Okavango Delta in late April and makes its way steadily down reaching many camps sometime in June or possibly early July, depending on their precise location, and peaking in August. As it is the dry season, gradually the flood waters evaporate over the next few months, leaving their valuable salts and minerals in the ground, and the waters recede through October and November.

The evocative mokoro trips - a traditional dugout canoe made from an ebony or sausage tree - largely take place in these shallow waters and seasonal flood plains of the Okavango Delta. Gliding along in a mokoro, in total harmony with nature is an experience not to be missed.

Why do some lodges have water all year, others only during the flood and others not at all?
In the south-eastern part of the Delta lies a slightly higher area of land, known as Chiefs Island. This forms part of the Moremi Wildlife Reserve and the higher ground means that the waters never flood this area. The lodges here are predominantly land camps offering  game drives. If they’re on the edges of the Moremi, they may offer some water-based activities during July to September but this would be secondary to the main focus which is game drives. Prime examples would be Mombo Camp, Chief’s Camp and Khwai River Lodge.

To the north of the Moremi lie some deep river channels which are fed through the summer rains and then by the Okavango Delta. The camps in this area such as Kwara Camp, Vumburu Plains and Shinde are what is called ‘multi-activity’ camps (for want of a more elegant term) in that they offer a choice of water or land based game-viewing activities throughout the year because of the presence of these deep river channels.

Broadly speaking, to the south of the Moremi are the seasonal camps which focus on game drives in the green season and offer a mix of activities as the flood comes in. As the Okavango Delta flood varies from year to year, no-one can say precisely when the flood waters will arrive so if you are booking early on in the season, in June for example, there may be an element of luck (but the price usually reflects this). Depending on the camp’s exact location, land-based activities can be quite limited in the full flood so the camps literally become surrounded by water. The advantage is that the animals also get restricted to limited island areas making for excellent game-viewing on foot, by mokoro or by boat. Excellent examples would be Nxabega, Jao and Baines Camps.

Finally further towards the northern and western stretches of the Delta are the permanent water camps, which as their name suggests, offer boat-based game-viewing and game walks on the surrounding islands. The game-viewing is more limited here but the birding is excellent. It’s worth noting that mokoro trips are not usually on offer here as the water is too deep to pole. Examples would be Jacana and Eagle Island Camp. 

Point for the Safari Visitor
Change is the essence of the Okavango Delta. The delta changes from year to year depending on flood levels and rains and the flood constantly forges new channels which prevents the delta becoming silted up. This dynamic nature leads to great diversity of water depth, soils, vegetation and animal distribution. The exact location of each camp dictates what activities are available and when and this can vary within a short distance. Assuming you are booking well in advance, we’ll be able to match a particular camp to your needs.

It also follows that staying at two different camps in different habitats will give you the best feel for the dynamic mood of the Okavango Delta.

I never knew that the northern part of the Kruger National Park would be so beautiful and diverse. Truly remote, the pristine wilderness area of Makuleke lies between the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers. The area is rich in history; filled with folklore of the early explorers and ancient civilisations. Here, Pafuri Game Lodge acts as a successful model for community conservation. Approximately 8% of the profits go straight back into the local community.

The region is also incredibly rich in biodiversity with more than 75% of the Kruger National Park’s bird, mammal, fish, amphibian, reptile and tree species being found in an area no more than 1% of the total expanse.

We arrived in the early evening and were met by the friendly Pafuri staff. The camp lies on the northern bank of the Luvuvhu River and has 26 tents, six of which are family tents sleeping up to 4 people (or even 5 if pre-arranged). Pafuri is also accessible by air with an airstrip only 10km away or you can fly from Phalaborwa Airport with a private charter.

The tents are accessed by elevated walkways and are spread out on either side of the main lodge along the river bank. The decor is modern and colourful with an understated luxury.

On our first morning game drive, just as the sun starts to rise, we drove into a magical fever tree forest. The fever tree is an attractive, semi-deciduous tree. The characteristic, almost luminous, lime green to greenish-yellow bark is smooth, slightly flaking, and coated in a yellow powdery substance described by some as sulphurous.

We had our morning cup of tea at Crook’s Corner, where the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and three countries, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique, meet. (Here Cecil Barnard hid on an island in the middle of the Limpopo in the ’20s to avoid being tracked down by pursuing rangers and police.) The ancient Limpopo River is now completely dry because of over-cultivation but we could just imagine the strength and might that the great Limpopo River once had…

That afternoon we passed enormous ancient Baobab trees and had our sundowner drinks with the spectacular views over Lanner’s Gorge. On our way back to the camp we were met by a full grown male leopard that seemed surprisingly unaffected by our presence. This is great news for an area that was not long ago affected by heavy poaching and I am sure that the predator numbers will grow to its former glory due to the huge success of the anti-poaching team.

After our final morning drive we left for Mashatu Camp and were sad to say goodbye to this jewel in the African bush.

We drove 3 hours to Pont Drift on the Botswana border where we were met by a Mashatu representative and transferred (35 mins) to Mashatu Main Camp for our 2 nights stay. Known as the ‘Land of the Giants’ the vast dry landscape of the Tuli region was in great contrast with Pafuri.

Mashatu Game Reserve in is a diverse wilderness of savannah, riverine forests, marshland, open plains and sandstone outcrops. The largest private reserve in Southern Africa, with the largest elephant population (almost 900) on private land in the world, Mashatu encompasses 65,000 acres along the western bank of the Limpopo River.

As we were having tea prior to our afternoon drive, elephants in their abundance met at the waterhole at Mashatu Main camp. However plenty of elephants are not all you’ll see on the game drives. A ranger and tracker in open four-wheel-drive Land Cruisers, will follow the spoor of any predator that they can find. I was highly impressed with the quantity and quality of the game viewing and our ranger was eager to please and had to rush from lion to leopard to cheetah within a short time on the drive.

Mashatu Main Camp has a large pool and the suites are luxurious and spacious with a double bed, single bed and a day bed, making it ideal for families or anybody that prefer the luxury of air-conditioning and all the other modern amenities one might need in the bush.

The next morning some of us went on a mountain biking excursion within the reserve which has become a popular adventure sport combining game viewing with the excitement of approaching wild animals in their natural habitat. Mashatu has many other additional activities on offer. Mashatu Walking Safaris with Paul Grobler lets you join in a morning or afternoon walk from the camp enjoying a delightful breakfast in the bush. A full day walking safari is also available for those who are interested. The Ivory Experience is lead by an elephant specialist, researching the ecology of the elephant population in Tuli. The Mmamakwa Trips are for those who are interested in the history of the area and learning more about the history of the area from the early Iron Age culture up to the more recent Boer war. The Limpopo Valley Horse safaris let you join on a morning or afternoon ride from the Fort Jameson’s on the Limpopo River (experienced riders only). The Predator Research Drive takes you on a research orientated drive giving a fascinating insight into the life of a leopard researcher.

In the morning, on our way back to the camp, lionesses and their cubs had just caught a blue wildebeest and as we approached a large herd or elephants saw the dead wildebeest and chased the lions away. The lions did return at a later stage and the cubs seemed so small and thin that I was glad that they had something to eat in the dry landscape that surrounded us!

Later in the afternoon we went to visit Mashatu Tented Camp. It is important to note that this tented camp is very rustic in style and amenities and cannot be compared with the luxury that you will find at either Mashatu Main Camp or Pafuri Wilderness Camp. However the feeling of being in the bush in an old style tented camp is a wonderful authentic experience.

These two wonderful camps, Mashatu and Pafuri are a unique combination and can be combined with a 2 night stay in the Sabi Sands area to make up a perfect safari for Southern Africa. You also may like to have a night or two at The Coach House Hotel and Spa en route from Mashatu to Pafuri. Contact mari@cedarberg.co.za for prices on these suggested combinations or any ideas to include these special places into your tailor-made itinerary.

I’ve just spent three days in the Okavango Delta in Botswana, staying at Stanley’s Camp for two nights and at Chiefs Camp for the third night. It felt as if I had been away for a month! I experienced so many amazing and awesome moments, the most special of which was the interaction with the elephants at Stanleys Camp -  Jabu, Tembe and Morula.

After breakfast we were transferred to the trio of elephants where we met Doug Groves who, together with his wife, Sandi, has cared for these elephants since 1988. He first set down some rules before we were introduced to Jabu, a proud and handsome bull who enjoys his role as the Alpha male of the small herd. We were then invited one by one to stand with Jabu and were allowed to touch him, to feel the difference in the skin of his legs, armpits and trunk, whilst Doug was chatting to us about elephants. Standing underneath the head of an elephant while touching his trunk and leg is indeed very special. Different emotions rush through you – you’re scared and wonder how you can even dream of standing underneath such a huge animal;  yet you are also awestruck by the trust and tranquility you feel around him.  Jabu short for Jabulani, a common Zulu name, means Happiness and indeed Jabu’s zest for life is inspiring.  He is kind, playful, generous, big-hearted and dependable. Of the three elephants he is the most independent and confident. After the introduction to Jabu, we then met Tembe and Morula. The end of the tail of an elephant feels like fencing wire!  Thembi short for Thembigela, is a common Zulu name meaning Trust. Thembi is the sweetheart of the herd and the smallest in stature. Smart and very social, she loves to be the centre of attention.  Morula weaves a powerful magic of her own as in her quiet and subtle way she captures your heart with her sincere, loyal and sweet nature.

After ample time for having your photograph taken with the elephants, you then accompany the herd on their foraging trek. You are invited by Doug to walk in front of the elephants. Morula placed her trunk on my shoulder and gently steered me in the direction she wanted to go. I cannot begin to explain how small, but at the same time how special, I felt. Imagine leading a trio of elephants through the bush! All guests are given the opportunity to experience this. The walk, through the stunning scenery of the Okavango Delta with its huge trees and grass plains, lasts approximately one hour.

Lunch is then served under the shade of  huge Sausage trees with the elephants in close proximity.  You are given a final opportunity after lunch for a photo with Jabu when he stands next to you at the table. His trunk actually pushes against the table! Doug then gets Jabu and Morula to demonstrate the various sounds that they make before Morula gives each guest a goodbye kiss. You are then officially a member of the “Living with Elephants” foundation.

Doug and Sandi strive to give Jabu, Thembi and Morula a life that is as close to elephants’ natural lives as possible, yet one that is cushioned from the enormous pressures, insecurities and challenges with which wild elephants are confronted. The Groves vowed from the beginning never to compromise the quality of life and security their elephants need. They are proud that their trio live a life so near to that of wild elephants that they even share grazing grounds. Currently, Grey Matters, Doug and Sandi’s Botswana-based company, supports the elephant Trio through educational-based eco-tourism. Through Grey Matters international visitors have the opportunity, through Jabu, Thembi and Morula, to foster a kinship with the African elephant. For further information visit the website www.livingwithelephants.org.

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